It's big, it's brash, it's dazzling, it's Carnival: Welcome to the sambadrome

OK, so it ain’t Rio. Everybody knows Carnival celebrations in the Marvellous City reach improbable heights of excess, and that wilder street parties can be found in the North East. But São Paulo isn’t fooling around either: those who opt for the visual extravaganza at the Sambódromo can expect the 14 escolas (samba schools) to be at the top of their game, each with a new theme, driving samba de enredo (themed sambas written by each school), and costumes glitzy enough to burn holes in your retinas. Yet, in spite of the city’s mega-budget and year-long preparations, ask paulistanos about their Carnival plans and many won’t even consider staying to celebrate in their hometown. It’s their loss. It's a walk-off: The 2013 competition heats up The main competition will be the highly anticipated 'Grupo Especial' – the top fourteen samba schools – beginning at 8pm on both 8 and 9 February, with seven of the top schools parading on the first night and the remaining seven on the second, all competing for glory and a hefty cash prize. On the 10 February, the 'Grupo de Acesso' schools parade, comprising eight second tier schools competing for the chance to be promoted to the Grupo Especial the following year. Thirty thousand revellers are expected to pack into the stadium each night to watch the schools perform a programme that has been in the works since even before the echoes of last year’s sambas de enredo had faded from the Sambódromo. The number of dancers who will be spin-sprinting and singing each night is nearly as great: about 25,000 in the combined 14 'Grupo Especial' schools. The rules of the game As the escolas perform, judges give scores in categories like song, costumes and organisation (just getting everyone paraded through the stadium in a timely, orderly fashion is in itself quite a feat). Then, on 12 February, the schools will gather at their respective rehearsal sites to watch the apuração (reading of judges’ scores) and raise a glass one last time to fête their win (or loss). The winning school and top runners-up will be invited back to the Sambódromo on 15 February for a victory lap, though by then, everyone will already be dreaming of 2014. Into the Sambódromo: The essentials Tickets in the stands run from R$80-$165, depending on the date and parade you want to see. More expensive options are available, including private booths for up to 25 people that go for as much as R$75,000. If you have Brazilian ID numbers, or can snag a friend’s, the easiest way to order is online or by phone (4003 2245, ingressofacil.com.br). Tickets can also be purchased in person at Anhembi Parque. Note that it's forbidden to take umbrellas, bottles and cans into the sambadrome – be prepared, since it might well rain, and take a plastic poncho along or remember to buy one outside the Sambódromo.